Description: Purchaser to receive on this kit one replacement camshaft of the GM factory production 327 30/30 camshaft GM part number 3849346 L76. This kit at the buy it now includes what the ebay photo shows: one camshaft as a reproduction to the factory 327 365hp cam, a set of new genuine GM hardened face lifters, a set of new heat treated hardened HD push rods, and a set of valve springs in the correct spring pressures which are not excessive unlike all the other valve springs marketed in 2023 as a "z28 replacement valve spring". You may have the heavier off road version springs no additional charge, recommended by GM for high RPM applications in off road racing. See the attached photo. I circled the hardened foot that is pressed and fused on the bottom of the lifter. In 2023 if the lifters do not have this, they fail at a very high rate no matter how expensive the oil or how careful and precise the special break-in procedures. It really does not matter the brand or the price or where the lifters are made in USA or abroad or if they have EDM oiling, or not. Nitriding the camshafts will not help to avoid the problems. We have tested this. For ones that are almost impossible to experience failure one must use the hardened foot set, no ifs ands or buts--PERIOD. Take it from a shop that has done more recent current testing on flat tappet lifter failure in the past few years likely than anyone else. We have experienced many failures with proper break-in and expensive zinc fortified oils--it has gotten MUCH worse in past two years but started in the 1980's. GM on any and every flat tappet engine ever built by GM has used hardened foot lifter. The hardened foot solid lifter has been discontinued for decades by GM I have the GMs with hardened foot we convert from hyd to solid. So, you guys sometimes have to learn in your own way. I cannot spend much more time trying to convince you. We have had cams nitrided and other things we have tried. Its not a cam problem, its a lifter problem!!! We do not specialize in lifter sales as a core product--its just something we offer on the sideline due to our failures and testing program to help others with what we have learned and proven. Roller cam conversion will cost over $1000 with price of quality lifters, the cam, and other special parts.And, you will have to give up the solid lash and go to hyd roller in most cases due to valve spring requirements of the solid roller lifter. Or, you can gamble with the non-hardened foot lifters, BUT a cam and lifter failure will cost a lot more then the hardened lifter price in time and repair costs and parts replacement. PURCHASER TO RECEIVE AT THE BUY IT NOW:This is a set of Genuine GM flat tappet lifters (set of 16) for solid/mechanical application. This set has the fused on hardened foot like GM used back in the 1960's and early 1970's. If you are tired of all the other solid/mechanical lifters which are failing almost constantly, this is the ONLY solution we know of outside of installing a roller camshaft. Installing a roller camshaft is problematic on these old collector engines if you want to stick with a solid cam. Solid roller cams require too much valve spring pressure in addition to a very high cost and hassle to convert to a roller cam. We have tried many different brands of other solid flat tappet lifter sold in the modern day, and they have a VERY high failure rate--some fail in the first few minutes of run time even with zinc fortified oil and proper high RPM break-in procedure. None of the other mechanical lifters offered in 2022 have this fused on hardened foot. We are the only shop who can offer them. These are a replacement for the long discontinued GM part numbers 5231585 and 5232695! We have done years of testing on our Superflow dyno and in actual cars and know first hand that there is a huge problem with the modern lifters. These are the only lifters we trust completely along with the NOS originals, and not only do they have the fused on hardened foot--they are Genuine GM! Contact Jerry through ebay with questions. Below is a general break-in procedure. However, with the hardened foot or hardened wafer lifter break-in is not as important if important at all. With the right lifters special oils and procedures for break-in are much less critical, dare I say irrelevant. Back in the good old days people installed camshaft and flat tappet lifters and knew nothing about break-in or special oils. They installed them started the engine and let them idle or whatever. The push for all these extravagant procedures and special oils is more of an excuse or cop out to pass the blame of failures away from the improperly made lifters--in reality. In reality flat tappet lifters have become so bad that in most cases special break-in oils and procedures even to the point of using light break-in valve springs is just a waste of time and the lifters will still fail and take out the camshaft along with them. As a recap the factory spring used on the 302 by GM and solid lifter LT1 350 Z28 in 1967-1970 was 85 lbs closed pressure and right at 200 lbs open pressure. The GM #142 off road spring most people think was the stock spring was 135 lbs seat closed and right at 280 lbs open, but in truth this "142 offroad spring was put out by GM for only racing purposes "off-road".As discussed, the modern parts companies recommend things that are likely contributing to the failed cam and lifter crisis. Cited below. From Engine Builder Magazine 2017"Flat tappet mechanical cams can be somewhat of a different animal in regards to setting up your spring pressures. Generally 130-145 lbs. on the seat with an open of around 350-360 lbs. should be adequate, but certain applications, particularly higher RPM builds, can be done with increased pressures. "Summit racing recommends: 130 seat closed and 300-325 open (mechanical flat tappet) As you can see, its is easy to be lead astray--even by the so called experts! Cited: https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/07/pressure-importance-getting-right-amount-spring-pressure/#:~:text=Flat%20tappet%20mechanical%20cams%20can,be%20done%20with%20increased%20pressures.https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4786/~/valve-spring-pressure---solid-flat-tappet RECOMMMENDED BREAK-IN PROCEDURE: Keep higher idle 1800-2500 range for first hour of run time, minimum 30 minutes. You can shut it off in between the first hour to check things. But when running keep idle up it for first 30 minutes to 1 hour. Spraying the oil pan with radiator with cool garden hose helps a lot too to keep temps down during camshaft break-in. A thermostat is not needed on these old higher compression engines. If one is used, forgo installing the thermostat until after cam break-in so water flow is immediate to keep engine temp down. Keeping the water and oil temps down helps reduce failures. Change oil and filter after break-in period. Run the diesel oil with bottle of zddp plus with each oil change indefinitely. *We do not worry about fine tuning or setting timing with too much attention or exactly until after cam break-in. As long as engine does not have more than 40 degrees at 1800-2500 rpm do not worry about setting timing exactly until after cam break-in when you can then safely low idle engine. However, runing igntion timing excessively retarded at break-in will cause excessive exhaust temps and may burn exhaust valve or seize and exhaust guide and stick a valve, so be aware to not have timing too retarded at break-in. Timing should be set with vac advance hose unhooked and blocked off. These older motors on today's fuel normally like around 8-10 degrees idle timing at around 800rpm. However, fine tuning of ignition timing and carburetor should not be done until after camshaft break-in period. You can spot check timing with timing light while engine is high idling during break-in, but do not low idle engine until after 30 minutes to 1 hour run in time 1800-2500 rpm. Again, you can shut it off anytime as needed during first hour of run time (to check things or to deal with leaks or other issues) but when ever restarting be sure to keep idle up so lifters can get oil splash and spin-in / seat in correctly. When timing is finely set (after camshaft break-in period and oil change), vacuum advance distributor hose should be plugged back in.
Price: 1195 USD
Location: Angola, Indiana
End Time: 2024-08-29T14:55:37.000Z
Shipping Cost: 59 USD
Product Images
Item Specifics
Returns Accepted: ReturnsNotAccepted
Non-Domestic Product: No
Other Part Number: 1965-70 CHEVY 396 402 427 454
Rod Bearing Size: OEM
Custom Bundle: No
Fitment Type: Direct Replacement
Mileage: L78 L71 L72 LS6
Manufacturer Part Number: Genuine GM Hardened Face Solid Lifters w/ 365hp 327 Cam Kit
Main Bearing Size: OEM
Mounting Hardware Included: No
Superseded Part Number: CAMARO CORVETTE CHEVELLE SOLID LIFTER
Modified Item: No
California Prop 65 Warning: DOES NOT APPLY
Brand: GM OEM ORIGINAL FACTORY
Type: 327 365hp Lifter and Cam Kit
Interchange Part Number: 302 DZ LIFTERS, 396 L78 LIFTERS, 454 LS6 LIFTERS, SOLID FLAT TAPPET LIFTERS, MECHANICAL FLAT TAPPET LIFTERS, 302 MO LIFTERS, L72 LIFTERS, 1969 CAMARO 302 LIFTERS, 350 LT1 LIFTERS, 5232695, 5231585, 3927140, 3911068, 397142, 3849346
Manufacturer Warranty: No Warranty
OE/OEM Part Number: Reproduction replacement for 3849346
Country/Region of Manufacture: United States
Finish: USED OEM
